PALAU  
BRIEFING | DIVING | USEFUL INFORMATION | HISTORY | 
   
 
  IMPORTANT: On all ships and plane wrecks in Palau waters, live ammunition can be found. A word of caution: DO NOT PICK UP ANY AMMUNITION!!!!! Due to the age of the bullets, bombs and mortars, etc. these pieces of history are very unstable and can explode.  
Special features
   
 

The Reef Hook is a truly a Palauan invention. The "hook" was designed to keep your hands free and to prevent damage to the reef, while facing strong currents. On one end of the "hook" is a large metal hook; on the other end is a safety clip that attaches to your BCD, with a 2 meters (6 ft) length of cord. If you are a photographer a reef hook is a must! It is highly recommended you use the reef hook any time you want to stop and the current is blowing you off your focus. Reef hooks are available at all dive shops in Palau.

 
   
  SOME FAMOUS SITES  
 
 
  Blue Holes  
 
Depths: 43 meters (140 ft) Current conditions: Moderate to strong
Visibility: 20 to 50 meters (60 to 150 ft) Access: 60 to75 minutes by speedboat
Required Experience: Novice to Intermediate
 
  The reef is a vertical wall that runs from north to south and merges with Ngemelis Wall at Blue Corner. There are four holes on top of the shallow reef at 1 to 2 meters (3-6 feet) deep that mark the entrance to a very large cavern. There are two 2 exits from the cavern on the face of the reef. One is a small window and the other is a huge opening. The bottom of the cavern is at 43 meters (140 feet). In the north end of the cavern, at 27 meters (85 feet), there is a narrow entrance that leads to another cave. This cave is appropriately named The Temple of Doom. Several people have perished in this cave, it is not for unexperienced divers. Only divers with a Cave Diver rating and special gear should enter this area.  
   
  Diving  
   
  The Blue Holes are probably the next most popular site in Palau, after Blue Corner. The dive at the Blue Holes usually starts by swimming over the shallow reef and descending through one of the four holes on top of the reef. Occasionally if the tide is very low or the swell is high the dive will commence down along the wall in through the small window into the cavern. The cavern is large and is usually flooded with rays of light…. a spectacular sight. Each hole on the ceiling appears as if it was painted light blue and the very large opening to the west is a deep dark blue. Spend some time in the cave and enjoy the sight of it before swimming out toward Blue Corner. Do not attempt to enter Temple of Doom unless you are prepared for cave diving and accompanied by a guide.

On your way out of the cavern, keep the wall to your left; you will pass beautiful canyons and crevices full of color and rich with marine life. At the corner hook yourself on to the reef and watch the sharks playing in the current.

Black coral grows sporadically, especially near the exit below. These coral don't need the direct sunlight that other corals need. This dive is very deep, with the first exit at 20 meters (66 ft). The bottoms have very heavy blue waters that go deeper and darker to the open sea. The bottom is sandy. The diver can let go and watch sharks, sea turtles during the trajectory.
 
   
  Marine life  
   
  Inside of the cavern you can find many soft corals and Tubastraea decorating the walls. Many species of nudibranchs and shells can be found along the sandy bottom. Large schools of barracuda, tuna and snapper patrol the cavern opening. The reef wall is vertical and offers just about every type of tropical fish and species of coral that you can imagine! The 20-25 minute swim along the reef to Blue Corner will reward the observant diver.  
 
 
  Blue Corner  
 
Depths: 12-40 meters (and up to 300) (40-130 ft and up to 990 ft) Visibility: 30 to 40+ meters (100 to 130 ft)
Required Experience:  Novice to Experienced according to current conditions Access: 50 to 70 minutes by speedboat
 
  This is one of those mind blowing dives! Located near Ngenelis island, the only access is by boat with a local guide. It is highly recommended to have experience diving with currents. Currents can be very strong and unpredictable .
This part of the reef is a large area that drops down dramatically to 300 meters (1000 ft) On top of the reef there are numerous canyons and tunnels.
Huge sharks, sea turtles and schools of barracuda are seen in this area on 90% of the dives. Sea snakes are spotted frequently. The abundant sea life is due to the strong currents that bring nutrients to the bottom part of the chain, which attracts members of the middle and top end of the chain.
Divers should be aware of the effects of the strong surge, not to damage the reef.
Due to its infinite opportunities, the Blue Corner is a must for photographers and experienced divers from all over the world.

 
   
  Reef Formation  
   
  A vertical reef wall that runs south to north parallel to Ngemelis Island. The reef then turns toward the open sea and stretches out from East to West, creating a plateau at 15 to 20 meters (45 to 60 feet) Past Blue Corner the reef wall curves again and runs south to north. The wall drops from 10 to 330 meters (30 to 1000 feet) or more and is covered with large variety of giant Gorgonian sea fans, hard corals and soft corals. The Eastern part of the plateau consists of large patches of sand. Massive coral heads and rocks are scattered throughout the sandy patches. The flat coral plateau on the west drops gently from 15 to 20 meters (45 to 60 feet) with colonies of cabbage corals as well as many varieties of hard and soft corals.  
   
  Marine Life  
   
  Blue Corner is home to some of the largest schools of fish in the world, here you can see just about every kind of fish found in the tropical ocean. Sharks, Wahoo, Tuna, Hawkes Bill and Green turtles, Eagle Rays, Giant Groupers, and Barracuda, to name but a few species. These denizens come in very close, in fact, closer than you can imagine. You will experience encounters here that you will provide plenty of thrills and excitement as well as great stories to tell friends. Blue Corner is said to offer the utmost photo opportunities in the world. Occasionally divers spot Great Hammerheads, Whale Sharks, Mantas, Marlin, Sailfish and whales.  
   
  Diving  
   
  Eastern buoy:
The dive guides usually refer to this as the "In Coming" dive. The dive starts at the canyon. Look for sleeping White Tip sharks on the sandy bottom of the eastern cut. Swim along the lush soft coral wall for approximately 100 meters (300 feet), you will come to a cavern with giant Gorgonian sea fans, look up, you will most likely see many gray reef sharks patrolling the reef wall along with big schools of Black Snappers and horse eye jacks. On the plateau you will find more swirling schools of barracuda, snappers, wrasses, triggerfish, etc.

Western buoy:
A dive that begins here is called the "Out-Going" dive. The wall starts at the Blue Hole and curves around south to the Blue Corner. The formation of the reef wall on this side is steeper and plunges beyond a diving depth into the sea. Keep a watch on your depth gauge, it is easy to drift down as you are caught up in the spectacle of action along the reef and out to sea. Look for large schools of yellow and white Pyramid Butterflyfish, Moorish Idols and Redtooth Triggerfish. The top of the reef is 3 to 5 meters (10 to15 feet) As you get closer to the Blue Corner the reef wall begins to gradually slope outward to form the edge of the Corner. By the end of this dive, it's possible to 'Hook on' (check the Reef Hook)

 
   
   
  Fascinating Facts  
   
  Most people believe Blue Corner acquired its name from the deep beautiful blue open ocean as seen at the Corner. The truth is, however, more interesting. Years ago the dive guides, though very familiar with the dive site at the Blue Holes, would exit the holes and continue the dive off to the right. One day Francis Toribiong (Known as Mr. Dive Palau and founder of Fish 'n Fins the pioneer dive shop in Palau) decided to go along the reef to the left. He couldn't believe his eyes, hundreds, maybe even thousands of fish of every color, size, and description! Blue Corner, one of the world's best dive sites, was discovered purely by chance. In describing how to get to the dive site, Francis told the other dive guides, "Go to the Blue Holes, and then go to the left until you come to the corner". That is how this unique and beautiful dive site became known as the Blue Corner.  
 
 
 
 
  Blue Corner Napoleon Wrasse - Photographer: P. Lange Blue Corner action - Photographer: Avi Klapfer Blue holes to Blue corner - Photographer: Munzinger
 
 
 
  Saies Tunnel  
 
Depths: Top of the reef to the main cavern entrance: 0.3 to 35 meters (1 to 100 feet)
Bottom of the cavern: 45-60 m (140-200 feet)
Current conditions: none in the tunnel. Moderate along the wall Visibility: 20 to 40 m (60 to 120 feet)
Required Experience: Intermediate due to entry and exit Access: 30-40 minutes by speedboat
 
  This dive borders on the 'safe-limits' of recreational diving, but Saies Tunnel is definitely one of the most exhilarating dives that you can do on Palau. This dive is NOT for novice or inexperienced divers.

Saies Tunnel is an enormous underwater cavern with three openings into the chamber from the side of the reef wall. The entrance to the cavern starts at approximately 33 meters (100 feet) and the bottom is over 43 meters (140 feet) The sheer wall, that starts at the surface, drops down to 65 meters (200 feet) and beyond to the open ocean.
 
   
  Diving  
   
  The dive starts by dropping straight down the vertical wall until you see the opening to the main entrance. The mouth of the cavern is not visible until you reach about 20 meters (60 feet) Enter the cavern as you descend below the top of the entrance at about 35 meters (110 feet) Schools of horse eye jacks and snappers will greet you at the entrance along with Gray Reef Sharks. Even though the cavern is more than adequately lit by natural sunlight, dive lights will enhance the colors of the corals and the surroundings. The bottom slopes up toward two large windows that allow light to penetrate the cavern and provide exit points to the reef wall.    
   
  Marine Life  
   
  Pyramid butterfly fish and brightly colored Anthias gather in large numbers along the outer reef wall. White Tip Reef Sharks and stingrays are often seen resting on the bottom. The top of the cavern is covered with bushes of black coral. The cavern "windows" are surrounded with magnificent sea fans and soft coral providing a great backdrop for photo and/or video opportunities. Several seldom seen angelfish fish inhabit the cavern; they are Centropyge multicolor and Centropyge colini. Look for the infrequently sighted deep-water angelfish Chaetodon burgessi hiding among the crevices at the top of the cave. Gobies and their alpheid shrimp can be found, in their shared burrows, all along the sandy bottom.  
   
  Fascinating Facts  
   
  The floor of Saies Tunnel was, at one time, at sea level. Many of Palau's reefs, caves, crevices and underwater canyons show evidence of a ledge between 30 and 40 meters (90 and 120 feet) This ledge is where the ocean, during the last Ice Age, used to strike the shallow reef.  
 
 
  Big Drop Off (Ngemelis Wall)  
 
Depths: 1 to 40 meters (3 to 120 feet) Current conditions: Moderate to none
Required Experience: Novice Access: Speedboat (50-70 min. from Koror)
 
  Big Drop Off is a popular lunch and snorkel location. It is 50 to 70 minutes by speedboat from Koror. With a visibility of 15 to 33 meters (50 a 33 ft), Big drop off is a sheer vertical wall, which runs along the whole length of Ngemelis Island. At extreme low tide, the entire top of the reef will be exposed. The edge of the reef drops straight down to 300 meters! (1000 ft).  
   
  Diving  
   
  The dive will start from one of two buoys depending on which direction the current is flowing. This beautiful wall should be seen from both directions. Drop down in the clear water to about 13 to 20 meters (40 to 60 feet) and drift with the current. Sea fans of all sizes jut out from the wall and make excellent background for spectacular photos. Soft corals whose colors range from deep violet to hot pink are everywhere. Schools of Pyramid Butterfly fish and Square Anthias forage for plankton just a few feet from the wall. Leather corals are very abundant. If you have a good eye for details you may be able to spot Leaf fish, Stonefish and the venomous Lionfish, so ornately camouflaged that they seem to melt into the rocks. White Tip and Nurse Sharks sleep on the sandy bottom. Leopard sharks also can be found As you do your 15 meter (5-foot) safety stop, drift along the top edge of the reef and marvel at all the colorful reef fish that dart in and out of the coral heads.  
   
  Marine Life  
   
  Pyramid Butterflyfish, Square Anthias, Moorish Idols, Sargent Major's, Yellowtail Fusiliers are among the myriad of fish found all along the edge and top of the reef. Blue Face, Regal, and Emperor Angelfish are easily spotted. Dwarf angelfish, such as Coral Beauty, Keyhole, and Gray's dart in and around the coral heads at the top of the reef. Clarki, and Blue Stripped Clownfish with their host anemones are also scattered along the reef. Hawksbill Turtles like to feed and rest at the top of the reef. Turtles can be approach if you move slowly.  
   
  Fascinating Facts  
   
  Big Drop Off, just what the name implies is "really big". About 10 meters (30 feet) from the mooring buoy to the east at 12 meters (35 feet) a large chain connected to a 2 meter (6 foot) steel sphere can be seen. This chain and ball was used during WWII to prevent the Japanese from entering the waterway leading to German Channel. Lieutenant Barnum from the US Navy conducted the Operation. The chain and ball on Big Drop Off was a mystery for 40 years until newly appointed Admiral Barnum returned to Palau in 1986 and told his story.  
 
 
 
Sieas Tunnel - Photo: Fish 'n Fins Palau Big Drop Off Crab in Coral - Photo: Fish 'n Fins Palau View through one of the windows at
Sieas Tunnel - Photo: Munzinger
 
 
 
  Helmet Wreck  
 
Depths: 15-35 meters (50 - 115 ft) Current conditions: None
Required Experience: Intermediate with
Wreck Diver certificate preferred
Access: Speedboat (2-3 min. from Koror)
 
   
  General Information  
   
  Length: 57.6 meters (189 feet)
Beam: 9.5 meters (31.3 feet)
Tonnage: Unknown (estimated to be less than 1,000 tons).

The first sight, that will immediately attract the most attention, is a round aft gun platform. The gun barrel is pointing to port amid the mangled steel of the collapsed gun mount. There are two depth charge release boxes located on each side of the platform; their lethal charges are still inside. At this point, you may wish to look at the propeller. The prop is almost completely covered by bottom silt. The rectangular rudder reveals the fact that no damage occurred to this part of the wreck. Decades of underwater marine growth cover the hull and the deck with thick layers of corals. On the aft starboard side of the ship a massive explosion tore open the hull revealing the ribs of the ship and scattering drum-like depth charges onto the sea floor. The exposed main cargo hold reveals stacks of depth charges neatly arranged on port side and, due to a massive explosion, scattered around on the starboard side. Under the port upper deck, stacks of helmets, now cemented together by decades of underwater corrosion, can be seen. Between piles of rifles and ammunition, gas masks stare out at divers from the sediment. The amidships superstructure is a box like. Along the port side you will come to the engine room's skylights and a pair of engine room ventilators that tower upward. The ship's main stack, now sitting on the bottom on the starboard side, left a gaping hole in the middle of the deck. There is an inner passageway, leading to several small rooms and a catwalk above the engine room. The wooden roof to the bridge is gone allowing easy access to the wheelhouse. The forward holds are penetrable through two large hatches on both sides of the forward light mast. No partition between the two holds exists so you can swim right through. The forward hold is half full of silt, but among the web of electrical wires, electronic equipment and ceramic jars are three, clearly visible, huge radial aircraft engines.

On the raised bow you can find a two-headed anchor winch (very unusual) with anchor chains extending into the chain holds and to the anchors. Inside the forecastle you can find brass lanterns and an old taffrail log (a speed-measuring device). There are excellent photo opportunities on all areas of this wreck.

Behind the stern are rich coral formations of Stag Horn corals, Brain corals and Lettuce corals.
 
   
  Night Diving  
   
  It is an excellent and rewarding night dive.  
   
  Fascinating Facts  
   
  The true name of this ship is unknown; she was not documented in any of the navy archives. Probably the ship was confiscated in Southeast Asia during the war.

Wreck hunter Dan E. Bailey discovered the ship, on January 18, 1990. Today the ship is called "Helmet Wreck", "The Depth Charge Wreck" Or "X Wreck".
 
   
 
 
  Ulong Channel  
 
Location: West of Ulong Island Depths: 3 to 13 meters (10 to 40 feet)
Visibility: 15 to 30 meters (45 to 90 feet) Current conditions: Can be strong and unpredictable.
Required Experience: Advanced Access: 30-40 minutes by speedboat
 
  This channel is also referred to as Ngerumekaol Pass. Close to it is the Ulong Island: a great place for a picnic because of its beautiful beaches and its historical significance. Ancient Palauans painted a series of petroglyphs on the high cliffs of the island. Be sure to have your Dive Guide point out the petroglyphs as you pass the western side of Ulong Island.  
   
  Reef Information  
   
  The sandy bottom of the channel is 3 to 13 meters (10 to 40 feet) deep and is decorated with numerous coral heads and coral formations. The sides of the channel start just below the surface and gradually slope toward the sandy bottom.  
   
  Diving  
   
  The dive usually starts along the reef at the northern side of the channel by dropping down to 20 m (60 feet) Keep the reef on your left side. About 10 minutes into the dive you will approach a sandy run-off, this is the entrance to the channel. Grey Reef and White Tip Sharks are always on patrol here and the current is usually strong. Hook on to one of the rocks and watch the action. Once you leave this area be prepared for one of the most exciting drift dives in Palau. Let the current carry you into the channel. One of the most impressive sights the diver will see is an enormous section of lettuce coral that has grown from the bottom of the channel to a height of 5 to 7 m (15-20 feet) The eastern end of the channel is deeper and the bottom is mostly sand.  
   
  Marine Life  
   
  Gray Reef Sharks, sting rays, schools of jacks, snappers, barracuda, and batfish are frequently seen at the entrance. When the moon is full, during the months of April, May, June and July, thousands of groupers gather here to spawn. Groupers are usually a solitary fish, but during this time they have been seen to school.

Titan Triggerfish also use this area to nest. When Titan Triggerfish are nesting they become extremely territorial and protective of their nest sites. Titan Triggerfish will dig out large depressions in the sandy bottom to lay their eggs.
 
   
  Fascinating Facts  
   
  Titan Triggerfish nests may have as many as 430,000 eggs clustered together in a fist-sized ball. When Triggerfish are nesting they can become quite nasty. Keep your distance!!!!  
 
 
 
Ulong Channel entarence
Photo: Fish 'n Fins Palau

Ulong Channel lettuce corals
Photographer: K. Davidson

Helmet wreck mast
Photographer: Munzinger
 
 
 
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